CURRENTLY LOOKING FOR GUARDIAN HOMES! CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION
This page will answer many questions you might have! Take your time to scroll through each one. If you have a question that has not yet been answered you can click on the contact us button. We are happy to guide you through the steps in reserving your new best friend!
Our puppies range from $2,500-$5,000 depending on breed and size.
You absolutely can find less expensive puppies elsewhere, however when buying a puppy you truly get what you pay for. A new puppy will be a key part of you and your loved ones lives. We believe it is important to also invest in the best program. This is the difference between an average breeder and a GREAT breeder.
We know the wait can be very difficult! A reputable breeder may not have any puppies available & a waitlist. Patience is everything. If you find an inexpensive puppy or one that is available immediately, we urge you to read the breeder's reviews on both Google and Facebook. Look into their curriculum; do they regularly show where the puppies are raised? What about breeder interaction and training development? Do they fully health test and provide proof?
If the breeder does not have reviews, it is because the review tab was turned OFF by the breeder, as that tab is there by default for every business page.
Puppies are chosen at 4 weeks old from those on the waitlist in order recieved. Submit a puppy application and wait for a response.
To be on the waitlist requires a non-refundable $100 partial deposit and then once your puppy is selected at 4 weeks the remaining balance of $400 is due.
If you would like to reserve a specific puppy a $500 deposit is required.
It is our goal to honor every dog in our program with the love & admiration they deserve.
Our adult dogs are FULLY HEALTH TESTED. What does that entail? This includes to all breed appropriate health testing including DNA testing, hips, elbows, patella, cardiac and thyroid testing by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals and eye certification by a canine ophthalmologist.
Secondly, we are a real legitimate business (not a back yard breeder or hobby breeder) who accepts credit cards and pays taxes (about 1/3 of gross), as every other legitimate business should.
-Age appropriate shots & record
- Dewormed at age 4,6 & 8 weeks
-Signed copy of 3 year health guarantee
-Copy of parents pedigrees if applicable
-Copy of parents testing
-Training Tip Documents
-Started on potty training from 3+ weeks
-Started on crate training from 5+ weeks
-Started ENS & ESI training
-A toy/blanket with scent of the litter
-Free month of pet insurance
-A lifetime of breeder support
Eight week old puppies have been overnight crate-trained (11pm-5am).
Doodles & Poodle puppies are practice groomed weekly (starting at age 4 weeks old).
We raise all of our puppies with bio-sensory training and Service Dog desensitization protocols from Upstate Guide Dogs; we do not add on extra charges for our puppy training program, as we firmly believe this plays a crucial role in the mental stability of your puppy.
Yes! We have several options available to safely get your puppy home. We have a wonderful flight nanny who we love and trust! We have available ground transportation as well.
It is for the well-being of our program to not allow visitors for several reasons.
YES! While each puppy comes with its own genetic coat test, we also offer a T-shirt test.
For $25 + shipping we will mail you a T-shirt with our logo that our dogs have been sleeping on. This can be done with the parents, or puppy you are wanting to adopt. This has helped several families decide if a breed is right for them! While these two test serves as an aid in figuring out what coat type is best for your family, we cannot guarantee you will not have an allergic reaction once your puppy arrives. Families with very strong allergies should request a T-shirt test from 75%-100% poodles. Please make your situation clear when inquiring so we can better assist you in finding the perfect match.
Dog Food: Life's Abundance
To potty train your puppy establish a routine.
-Puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to do their business. Typically, a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is 2 months old, they can hold it for about two hours. Don't go longer than this between bathroom breaks or they’re likely to have an accident.
-Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.
-Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your puppy (on a leash) to that spot. While your puppy is relieving themselves, use a specific word or phrase that you can eventually use before they go to remind them what to do. Take them out for a longer walk or some playtime only after they have eliminated.
-Reward your puppy every time they eliminate outdoors. Praise or give treats—but remember to do so immediately after they’ve finished, not after they come back inside. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for going outdoors is the only way to teach what's expected of them. Before rewarding, be sure they’re finished. Puppies are easily distracted and if you praise too soon, they may forget to finish until they’re back in the house.
-Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. What goes into a puppy on a schedule comes out of a puppy on a schedule. Depending on their age, puppies may need to be fed two or three times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that they'll eliminate at consistent times as well, making house training easier for both of you.
-Pick up your puppy's water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they'll need to relieve themselves during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don't make a big deal of it; otherwise, they will think it is time to play and won't want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don't talk to or play with your puppy, take them out to the spot where they relieve themselves and then return them to bed.
-Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on them whenever they’re indoors.
-Tether your puppy to you or a nearby piece of furniture with a six-foot leash if you are not actively training or playing. Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go out. Some signs are obvious, such as barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take them outside to their bathroom spot. If they eliminate, praise them and reward with a treat.
-Keep your puppy on leash in the yard. During the house training process, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house. Give your puppy some freedom in the house and yard only after they become reliably house trained.
-Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it's a normal part of house training. Here's what to do when that happens:
All our puppies become familiar with the crate from 5 weeks onward. We begin with short durations and gradually increase time each week. By 8 weeks puppies have been sleeping in their crates for 5-7 hours a day.
However if you are still having difficulty after your pup arrives home, here are some tips you should keep in mind.
-A good way to continue to create positive exposure to the crate is by playing a game that teaches him to go into the crate on command. At mealtime, grab a handful of his favorite treat or kibble and take your puppy to the crate area. With a bit of encouragement, toss some kibble into the crate. As your puppy runs in after the food, say "Go to your crate." Once your puppy has eaten the prize, he will run out to play again.
-Repeat the exercise 15 to 20 more times per session. Gradually move farther from the crate before you toss the food. Eventually, you should be able to say "Go to your crate" as you sweep your hand toward the empty crate and your puppy will enter on command.
-If possible, keep the crate in an area where the family spends a lot of time so your puppy has the opportunity to occasionally enter on his own. You can encourage exploration and time in the crate by placing treats or toys in the crate for your puppy to find.
-You must be careful not to overdo crate confinement. Your puppy can be kept in his crate all night for sleeping and up to four hours during the day, but if you are away from home for a longer period, you will need to provide more room until your puppy can control his bowels or bladder.
-If your puppy cries or barks while confined, try to ignore him. Releasing your puppy or giving him any type of attention will reinforce the behavior.
-You need to make your puppy stop barking before you let him out of the confinement area. You can try blowing on a whistle or making an unusual noise. This will cause your puppy to be quiet as he tries to decipher the sound. You can then quickly go into the room and release your puppy while he is quiet.
-Always give your dog a potty break before putting them in the crate, and don’t forget to take them outside immediately after letting them out. This is especially important for puppies, whose "hold time" is still developing.
-Don’t crate your dog for too long. Doing so might force them to soil inside. Again, this is the biggest concern for puppies, whose “hold time” is roughly their age in months translated to hours. That means a 4-month-old puppy can hold it for about four hours. (Remember, play and excitement can make your pup need to go out more frequently, too.) For adult dogs, avoid crating them for more than four hours. That means that you should plan for a mid-day break if you'll be leaving your dog crated during the work day.
-Feeding your dog's meals in their crate with the door open can help to make it a positive spot. If they’re reluctant to eat inside, place the bowls next to the crate for a few meals, then just inside of it, then finally, at the back of the crate.
-Remember that there’s a difference between “frustration” noises and “I gotta go” noises. If you’ve just returned from a potty trip, a dog whining in the crate for the first few minutes is likely just settling in.
-The crate should never be used for punishment. Remember, the most important aspect of crate training is ensuring that your pup thinks it’s a fantastic place to hang out!
Yes! Here are 14 tips to help you groom your doodle:
1. Keep sessions short. Keep the experience brief and very rewarding while brushing. This is especially good practice while your doodle's hair is shot and not matted.
2. Give high value treats constantly during the training in the beginning. Have a friend help you feed treats and distract while you brush.
3. Once you have been practicing a while, switch from high value treats to a long lasting snack. This could be a bully stick, kongs filled with yogurt or lick matts smeared with peanut butter. This will create a great distraction for your pup while grooming.
4. After lots of practice, start reducing the number of treats.
5. Try brushing in small segments around their body. Brush in different sections each session and cease if your pup gets overly stressed.
6. You might want to try putting your puppy on a leash while brushing and grooming. Sometimes they just behave better!
7. Similarly, some dogs just behave better while on a grooming table. Try one with a grooming arm and safety loop too!
8.Use detangling products such as sprays, serums or cornstarch can help keep matts at bay.
9. Bathing and conditioning your doodle more often will make brushing easier. It's all about keeping it tangle free!
10. Do not wait till your pup already has matts. Be proactive and add brushing into your DAILY routine.
11. Make sure you use a high quality brush and matt comb.
12. Learn proper line brushing so you are not constantly fighting tangles and matts.
13. Stay consistent! Keep practicing until your doodle tolerates (or even enjoys!) being brushed and groomed.
14. If using clippers at home, practice shaving paws and face in short tolerable bursts.
Read our reviews and view our social media content to see WHY our puppies are special and worth the investment. Socials
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